Known as "Sapeurs," these dapper dressers are part of a Congolese subculture devoted to the cult of style. In Brazzaville and Kinshasa -- the capitals of neighboring Republic of the Congo and the Democratic Republic of the Congo -- they stand out among the widespread poverty, strutting the streets like walking works of art.
These week, "les Saps" gather for the annual commemoration of the death of Stervos Niarcos, the leader of the La Sape movement, at his grave in the Gombe cemetery in Kinshasa.
Every Sapeur has his own unique style. Pastel-colored or dark three-piece suit, cravat or bow tie, and cigars and pipes are de rigueur.
"The Sapeur is also about masculinity, politics, changing the stereotypes about how people view Africa," says Didier Gondola, author of "History of the Congo."
Many Sapeurs rent or borrow clothes from fellow fops or get them from friends and relatives visiting from Europe.
Sapeurs often dress up and meet in streets or bars for an informal contest. It's an occasion to show off the designer labels and unique combination of styles.
In the 1970s, Western suits were prohibited. Even then, "les Sapeurs" rebelled by wearing aggressively non-conformist clothes.
Sapeurs say they aren't mere fashionistas - as many regard dapper dressing as a "political statement."
French, Italian, British, and Japanese fashion brands are the most sought-after. Some Sapeurs boast of spending $5,000 on a single suit. Imitations are not tolerated.
The attention to detail by "les Saps" tends to include a focus on jewelry, embroidery and color.
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